Cookbook, Spring 1977
Walker and Claudine Cowen
Bocuse, the spokesman for a new generation of French cooks, has become the best-known cook in the world. The publication of his cookbook—a long awaited event—is not a disappointment. This massive volume of 500 pages is a complete treatise on cooking. It seems, at first glance, another "classic" French cookbook. All the familiar recipes are here. But the reader will notice at once the remarkable changes in preparation. These recipes are simpler, tastier, and more refined. The reasons? Bocuse's introduction, which is excellent and a concise manifesto of the nouvelle cuisine, stresses that one must use only the best food obtainable. Hence, the title of the book. You should shop to discover the finest food available and then decide how to prepare it, not select a recipe and then seek ingredients which might not that day be at their best. A second basic rule is that one should leave the table "still feeling slightly hungry." This, of course, should only be an impression imparted by the lightness of the menu. Finally, Bocuse is an advocate of idiosyncrasy. The quantities given in the recipes are only approximate; your taste should be the final judge. Only the timing is fixed. With this approach, it is little wonder that Bocuse has found around the world ways to bring together flavors he believes are superior to the traditional ones. He changed his way of cooking vegetables after a visit to China; his garnish for a beef rump comes from Mexico. Many of these remarkable recipes are adapted from great masters like Careme and Lucas-Carton. Others, among those most simple and refined, are from his family. His recipes for stocks are quite simple, a far cry from Escoffier, and excellent. His fresh tomato souffle is a pure jewel. This simple dish was, characteristically, seryed at a famous dinner with truffle soup. This is the book of a chef. His simple recipes for family cooking are easy to follow. The more complicated dishes will be understood only by very experienced cooks. All of them, however, contain tips which are invaluable. "In cooking," says Bocuse, "one does not invent anything." If he has not, he has certainly, with this book, carried French cooking to a new and attainable height. It was not turned out in a hurry to appeal to fashion. Nor will it be easy to translate properly.

