In our present world of decadent cuisine—too much of the exquisite over too little of the indispensable—it is a joy to find that Mrs. Kamman is still an artist at mixing both in admirable proportions. She has known the indispensable since she worked in her aunt's two-star restaurant in France and has enlarged her knowledge to masterful proportions. Her introduction to pates and terrines, for example, the proportions of the meats used, the way to adjust their texture and flavor, and all the other necessary information, are actually all one needs to know, and ever will, not only to follow any recipe for pâtés but also to create one's own. The same can be said for her general comments on sauces, what they were and what they should be today—including some sharp criticism on young French chefs pouring "acid sauces" on duck breast scallops ("magrets"), and others. As for the exquisite, Mrs. Kamman has what must be called a natural genius to deal with it. Consider her Duck Consommé (for which we stored leftover duck carcasses and giblets in the freezer until we had enough), her Mousselines of Smoked Salmon in Red Wine, her Veal Roast with Garlic and Thyme, her Timbales of Asparagus with Onion Cream, her Lavender, Thyme, and Honey Ice-Cream—or, better, do not consider but cook it. You will have an incomparable meal. All the way Mrs. Kamman leads you with a firm hand and adds all she knows about choosing the ingredients, storing them before and after, and absolutely everything else you need to know, including when you must use your own good sense or taste. For the timid, Mrs. Kamman has just published Madeleine Cooks (Morrow $17.95), based on her television series. Preparations here are necessarily shorter and simpler, although excellent. It is a convenient book but should not be on the cook's shelf without In Madeleine's Kitchen.