In the heart of downtown Aberdeen, the tea room is the Tastie Tattie Shop. Today's menu features tatties and chili, and the girl I give my order to is wearing a stud in her nose. Aberdeen, the Granite City, looks built to last, but the modern world, disposable like plastic milk cartons, squeezes between cracks in the granite. Across from the cathedral the Upperkrust Katerer has a shocking-pink valence over the store front. At "Marks & Sparks" around the corner, platform shoes and leopard-skin short shorts are on display in the window.