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A Meditation on Roast Chicken

June 30, 2010

Just as a bottle of wine is enhanced by knowledge of its production and provenance, food is enriched by a sustained meditation on the life it once was and a reverence for all the work that brought it to the table.

The Tyranny of the Fuyu Persimmon

November 12, 2009

Every time I crunch into a fuyu persimmon I feel guilty, like when I read the Times online or ignore my local bookstore for a cheaper copy on Amazon or Alibris.

The Cookbook Writer as Food Anthropologist

September 18, 2009

The great anthropological cookbooks of the 1960s and 1970s have been all but replaced by the fluffy side-projects of TV personalities, further alienating home cooks from their kitchens.

Déjà Food

June 5, 2008

David Cushman Coyle's 1947 review of a proto-Pollan critique of the American diet.